From buzz cuts to bleach and blue hair, queer people in India negotiate gender, caste & religion strand by strand.
.jpg)
As a child, I loved getting haircuts with my grandfather at an open-air barbershop under a peepal tree in Mumbai’s B.D.D Chawl No. 30. It had a blue wooden table with a few basic salon tools like razors and scissors.The sprawling peepal tree had a large chauthara—a raised platform where people, mostly men and kids, would sit and chat all day. It was never empty.
I’d wait for my turn, usually after my grandfather’s. I’d perch on a stool kept in front of the table. I was mesmerised by the rhythmic snip of scissors, the hum of clippers.
Just like the heavy male presence in the barbershop, my life was surrounded by men. In Mumbai, I grew up with six men in the house. When we moved to my maternal home in Igatpuri in Nashik district, five of the eight family members were men. I spent my teenage years in Igatpuri. Even my cousins—my aunt’s two sons—who visited often, added to that atmosphere. All of it played a role in how I saw masculinity.
I wanted to be like those men. My uncles, cousins, neighbours—all had a certain swagger. The way they ran their fingers through their freshly cut hair, how confident they looked walking out of the barbershop.I was drawn to the attention they received, the authority they held in the house. In contrast, the lives of women—marked by constant labour and sacrifice—held no appeal. I often wondered if the difference in appeal had something to do with how men and women wore their hair. So, I mimicked the men around me. I would fight with my mother to let me wear jeans. I kept my hair short.
Hair codes us in ways we can’t always control: it signals gender, caste, religion, political belief, and sometimes, deviance. This story is about how something as everyday as a haircut can carry the weight of visibility, misrecognition, and defiance—how queer identity is negotiated not just in who we love or how we dress, but also in how we wear our hair.
It was during my summer vacation after Class 6 when I got my first period. Overnight, everything shifted. The family that once indulged my masculinity now expected something else. I was handed a new script—of growing out my hair, softening my presence, and performing femininity in ways I didn’t understand. My space to explore queerness as a teenager was lost in these heterosexual and familial realities of my early life.
By the time I left school, my hair touched my waist. I shaved my arms and legs, not because I wanted to, but because that’s what my best friend did. I was learning to perform girlhood, but it never felt like mine. My body was shifting in ways I couldn’t control, and my hair—long, heavy, constantly policed—became a symbol of everything I didn’t want to be.
I didn’t have the language for queerness back then. But I knew this: hair was my first battleground.
In 2018, when I was 18, I returned to Mumbai for my undergraduate studies. I was living in a government hostel for marginalised students, which came with a monthly stipend of 900 rupees—never delivered on time, but enough to give me a sense of independence. For the first time, I felt I didn’t have to follow the family rule of growing my hair long. I could finally decide for myself.
I used that freedom to do what I’d wanted for years. With my waist-length hair, I walked into Shahid’s tin-walled salon, near my hostel. I asked the barber to give me a “boy cut”. Within minutes, Shahid’s scissors had transformed me. The weight was gone. I felt lighter, freer—like I could finally breathe in my skin.
I used to like boy cuts. But over time, as I began to accept my queerness, the boy cuts no longer felt right. I was a girl with a boy cut, I felt.
I needed to do something more with my hair and its appearance to feel more queer.
So, on a mundane summer afternoon, I again walked into a small barbershop. It was barely a hundred square feet with two large mirrors on both walls, posters of men wearing different haircut styles facing the entrance.
“Do you have dye?” I asked. He only had one colour: golden yellow.
He pulled out a packet of Fem bleach—meant for faces, not hair—and smeared it across my scalp. As is the case with instant bleach, within minutes, the hair strands turned a garish orangey-golden.
I finally felt at peace. The experience of expressing that something in me was different from the world around me.
Even though my parents found my dyed hair strange at first, they didn’t bother me about it. Others weren’t as kind. Neighbours stared. Friends laughed. Grandmother scolded. Many hurled casteist slurs—chapri, bhangi.
At the time, I couldn’t make sense of why my buzzed, bleached hair provoked those words. How could orange hair make me “bhangi”? But I remembered being called dalindar as a child when I had lice. In Marathi, dalindar is used to refer to people who bring bad omen, people who don’t bathe, look unhygienic and have lice. The look and color of hair had invited caste into the conversation. I had heard those slurs before, too, whispered by girls in my convent school when talking about “Dalit boys” who wore “chapri cut”. The orange in their “chapri cut” was mostly because they, like me, couldn’t afford to go to fancy salons or pay for expensive hair colours.
Somewhere between memory and insult, I realised: my queerness, my caste, and the way I looked were collapsing into a stereotype others recognised, even when I didn’t yet have the language for it.
To look visibly queer while also being from a caste-oppressed community meant I was always under scrutiny, always too much.
But at that moment, I didn’t care. I felt visible and “queer enough.”
That bleach job was more than rebellion—it was the beginning of me figuring myself out. Later, I dyed my hair blue. And then I kept dyeing it blue. For two years straight, it became my default—my first choice, always. It wasn’t just about colour; it was how I asserted my commitment to Ambedkarite politics. Blue was my way of saying where I stood—and who I stood with.
As a child, I loved getting haircuts with my grandfather at an open-air barbershop under a peepal tree in Mumbai’s B.D.D Chawl No. 30. It had a blue wooden table with a few basic salon tools like razors and scissors.The sprawling peepal tree had a large chauthara—a raised platform where people, mostly men and kids, would sit and chat all day. It was never empty.
I’d wait for my turn, usually after my grandfather’s. I’d perch on a stool kept in front of the table. I was mesmerised by the rhythmic snip of scissors, the hum of clippers.
Just like the heavy male presence in the barbershop, my life was surrounded by men. In Mumbai, I grew up with six men in the house. When we moved to my maternal home in Igatpuri in Nashik district, five of the eight family members were men. I spent my teenage years in Igatpuri. Even my cousins—my aunt’s two sons—who visited often, added to that atmosphere. All of it played a role in how I saw masculinity.
I wanted to be like those men. My uncles, cousins, neighbours—all had a certain swagger. The way they ran their fingers through their freshly cut hair, how confident they looked walking out of the barbershop.I was drawn to the attention they received, the authority they held in the house. In contrast, the lives of women—marked by constant labour and sacrifice—held no appeal. I often wondered if the difference in appeal had something to do with how men and women wore their hair. So, I mimicked the men around me. I would fight with my mother to let me wear jeans. I kept my hair short.
Hair codes us in ways we can’t always control: it signals gender, caste, religion, political belief, and sometimes, deviance. This story is about how something as everyday as a haircut can carry the weight of visibility, misrecognition, and defiance—how queer identity is negotiated not just in who we love or how we dress, but also in how we wear our hair.
It was during my summer vacation after Class 6 when I got my first period. Overnight, everything shifted. The family that once indulged my masculinity now expected something else. I was handed a new script—of growing out my hair, softening my presence, and performing femininity in ways I didn’t understand. My space to explore queerness as a teenager was lost in these heterosexual and familial realities of my early life.
By the time I left school, my hair touched my waist. I shaved my arms and legs, not because I wanted to, but because that’s what my best friend did. I was learning to perform girlhood, but it never felt like mine. My body was shifting in ways I couldn’t control, and my hair—long, heavy, constantly policed—became a symbol of everything I didn’t want to be.
I didn’t have the language for queerness back then. But I knew this: hair was my first battleground.
In 2018, when I was 18, I returned to Mumbai for my undergraduate studies. I was living in a government hostel for marginalised students, which came with a monthly stipend of 900 rupees—never delivered on time, but enough to give me a sense of independence. For the first time, I felt I didn’t have to follow the family rule of growing my hair long. I could finally decide for myself.
I used that freedom to do what I’d wanted for years. With my waist-length hair, I walked into Shahid’s tin-walled salon, near my hostel. I asked the barber to give me a “boy cut”. Within minutes, Shahid’s scissors had transformed me. The weight was gone. I felt lighter, freer—like I could finally breathe in my skin.
I used to like boy cuts. But over time, as I began to accept my queerness, the boy cuts no longer felt right. I was a girl with a boy cut, I felt.
I needed to do something more with my hair and its appearance to feel more queer.
So, on a mundane summer afternoon, I again walked into a small barbershop. It was barely a hundred square feet with two large mirrors on both walls, posters of men wearing different haircut styles facing the entrance.
“Do you have dye?” I asked. He only had one colour: golden yellow.
He pulled out a packet of Fem bleach—meant for faces, not hair—and smeared it across my scalp. As is the case with instant bleach, within minutes, the hair strands turned a garish orangey-golden.
I finally felt at peace. The experience of expressing that something in me was different from the world around me.
Even though my parents found my dyed hair strange at first, they didn’t bother me about it. Others weren’t as kind. Neighbours stared. Friends laughed. Grandmother scolded. Many hurled casteist slurs—chapri, bhangi.
At the time, I couldn’t make sense of why my buzzed, bleached hair provoked those words. How could orange hair make me “bhangi”? But I remembered being called dalindar as a child when I had lice. In Marathi, dalindar is used to refer to people who bring bad omen, people who don’t bathe, look unhygienic and have lice. The look and color of hair had invited caste into the conversation. I had heard those slurs before, too, whispered by girls in my convent school when talking about “Dalit boys” who wore “chapri cut”. The orange in their “chapri cut” was mostly because they, like me, couldn’t afford to go to fancy salons or pay for expensive hair colours.
Somewhere between memory and insult, I realised: my queerness, my caste, and the way I looked were collapsing into a stereotype others recognised, even when I didn’t yet have the language for it.
To look visibly queer while also being from a caste-oppressed community meant I was always under scrutiny, always too much.
But at that moment, I didn’t care. I felt visible and “queer enough.”
That bleach job was more than rebellion—it was the beginning of me figuring myself out. Later, I dyed my hair blue. And then I kept dyeing it blue. For two years straight, it became my default—my first choice, always. It wasn’t just about colour; it was how I asserted my commitment to Ambedkarite politics. Blue was my way of saying where I stood—and who I stood with.
For many queer people, hair isn’t just about style—it’s about survival, control, and visibility. For Shama*, a 25-year-old trans woman living in Delhi, hair became both a source of joy and the terrain of painful negotiation.
“My journey with transness began when I started growing my hair out,” she said, smiling as she recalled discovering her curls for the first time. But that joy often came with restrictions. Visiting her family felt impossible because of her hair. Her father once refused to take her into his office because he was ashamed of her long, blonde hair.
She remembers the day she shaved her head off against her will, after a phone argument where her father said they wouldn’t talk about anything else until she changed her hairstyle. “There is no hair anymore, and you will have to listen to me now,” she told him on a video call.
“Me having to cut it [my hair] against my wish is violence,” she said to me. “It is painful.”
Hair, Shama said, became a tool of control—but also a site of resistance.
Ari, a 23-year-old journalist in Delhi, understands this tension. She keeps her hair short—never past the shoulders. “When it gets long, I feel like I’m losing myself,” she said. Strangers have often mistaken her for a boy. “It doesn’t upset me,” she added. “It affirms my gender-fluid identity.”
In primary heterosexual society, visibly queer hair—whether shaved, spiked, dyed, or deliberately asymmetrical—acts as both signal and shield. In the ’80s, lesbians in the West embraced the mullet to recognise each other in public. In the ’90s, the butch undercut became iconic. Today, neon-dyed hair—green, blue, purple—forms its own constellation of queer codes.
In Shame and Glory: A Sociology of Hair, sociologist Anthony Synnott wrote: Hair is perhaps our most powerful symbol of individual and group identity—powerful first because it is physical and therefore extremely personal, and second because, although personal, it is also public rather than private.
For Alfaaz, a 24-year-old Sikh trans man in Delhi, hair is a site of a deeper conflict between gender identity and religious tradition.
In 2022, he bought his first pagdi, traditionally worn by Sikh men, from a shop near Gurudwara Bangla Sahib: black, soft, and five metres long. For him, it was a step toward aligning with Sikh tradition and expressing his masculinity. But instead of being seen as a man of faith, he was misread entirely.
“People started seeing me as a religious woman,” he said.
In Sikh tradition, it’s uncommon for women to wear pagdis—but those who do are often seen as especially devout. So when Alfaaz, who has not yet transitioned, wore his hair long and tied a turban, many assumed he was a religious woman, not a trans man..
Alfaaz’s relationship to hair is shaped not just by gender dysphoria but by collective memory. His family carries the trauma of Partition and the anti-Sikh violence of 1984. He grew up hearing stories of Sikhs cutting their hair to survive. “I don’t want to be mistaken for a Hindu,” he said. “Especially now, with Hindutva forces rising. I want to hold on to my minority identity.”
But doing so came at a cost. His long hair, a marker of faith, made him unreadable in queer circles. “Trans people at a queer meetup didn’t recognise my transness, even when I told them that I am a trans man, they would still misgender me,” he said.
Alfaaz acknowledges that in queer communities, appearance matters—that being able to translate identity into expression is important. Hair, especially, plays a crucial role through vibrant dyes, dramatic cuts, and androgynous styles. But the discrimination he faced based on how he looked left him disillusioned. “Queer spaces need to understand the identity politics of their fellow queers,” he insisted. “We don’t come without our roots.”
A few days ago, I came across a familiar setup that reminded me of those haircut memories with my grandfather—this time, in Kolkata. A brown wooden chair, I no longer needed to climb to get a haircut. A tree over it with just a few fresh leaves, hinting at spring, and salon tools neatly arranged on a small cement ledge. Also, a middle-aged barber was napping beside it.
It brought back a time when hair felt simpler—before language, before labels. A time when I copied the boys in my family and believed I looked like them. When a haircut was just that.
My negotiation with hair that began in college continues and has probably become more complex. After marriage, now I wear my hair long but to satiate the queer and scratch that “boy cut” itch in me, I got a buzz undercut on the right side of my scalp. At home, I sometimes tie my hair in a pony so the undercut is seen, but when I visit my parents or in-laws, I part my hair to cover the undercut. Both versions are mine. I like them both.
* names have been changed to protect privacy
Ekta Sonawane (they/she/he) is a non-binary gender fluid journalist from Maharashtra.
Jose (she/they) is a non-binary illustrator from Kerala whose work highlights personal stories marked by gender, body experiences, and their south-Indian heritage. While not lost in their sketchbook, they can be found devouring all things camp and horror.
Shruti Sunderraman (she/her) is a writer, editor, and strategist who splits her time between Bangalore, Bombay, and Goa.
Visvak (they/he) is a writer and editor, mostly of narrative nonfiction.
Ankur Paliwal (he/him) is an independent journalist and founder and managing editor of queerbeat.